I had already partly pried the cv axle out of the differential though, so I tried prying the hub off the axle using the knuckle to get leverage. Then used the 5 lb hammer to try to beat the hub off. Starting beating down on it and eventually this happened: So that cv axle housing would rather go through the knuckle then release from the hub I haven't ruined the axle yet so this is my last ditch effort. I want to remove the axle and take it to a shop and see if they can press the hub off. So my question is will the CV joint pass threw the spindle or does the entire spindle have to come off also. I don't want to separate the ball joints and tie rod if i don't have to. My car is a 95 GS There are no extra circlips of unusual tricks to remove them. You just remove the nut and press the axle out of the hub. It may need several tons force, plus penetrating oil, and time for the oil..
STUCK RZR AXLE CUP These holes are perfectly placed so you can slide a medium sized prybar or large screwdriver through to get in between the cup and the transmission. With the prybar inplace you can leverage it against the frame and not the transmission and your cup should pop out. STUCK RZR AXLE CU If you are just doing a boot, or rebuilding either the inner or outer CV joint, then just pop it out of the transmission, and disconnect the hub assembly from the car. (I think you're just about there, just need to remove the ball joint). Mine was stuck on my car, like REALLY stuck. I couldn't do anything, not even a sledge hammer/heat/etc Remove the front brake rotor from the hub by pulling it straight off wheel mounting studs. Remove the speed sensor cable routing bracket from the strut assembly. Remove the hub and bearing-to-stub axle retainer nut. Install a puller tool onto the hub and bearing assembly and secure it into place using the wheel lug nuts Buy the right CV axle. Raise right front of vehicle. Remove wheel. use a lugnut and washers to secure brake rotor so that it is not flopping and trapping rust behind. Remove axle nut. Loosen nuts from outer tie rod end stud and lower ball joint stud almost all the way off, but do not remove them completely You have two options (from my experience) Get the bolts that hold the hub into the spindle and thread them in about 6 turns or so (leaving a little gap between the head and the spindle) Put a socket on an extension, and wail on the extension. Using the bolts as a way to force the hub out from the back
1- Remove and clean all the grease from the stuck front passenger CV axle cup 2- Remove the screw from the back of the Vise Grip brand (now Irwin Vise Grip) and install into the slot of the Axle Puller 27032 attachment....I have other brand vise/locking grips but the original Vise Grip brand has the best gripping teeth IMO I then screwed some 1/2 inch all-thread (purchased from lowes) into the tapped hole and used a slide hammer to remove the stuck hub. :motz: In about 3 slides of the hammer it broke free. :joint: If and when you do get the axles out, be sure and put antizeeze on the splines of the new/old axles before installing and hopefully they will be alot. .Get GM rust penetrant and inhibitor heat valve lubricant #1052627. you can get the axle to start moving and when the axle is compressed, remove the hub from the struts again. (I usually separate it from the ball joint so a alignment isn't needed) this has worked 90% of the time
I have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5 AWD I'm attempting to remove and replace the passenger side axle. I have the hub end out but I'm having trouble removing the transmission end. Does anyone have any experience with this truck, any tips to help get the transmission end out? Thanks. Charli I can access one of the bolts holding hub assembly in place without removing axle but I'm worried that I may damage outer CV joint on the axle if I keep trying to remove the bolts without removing the axle. so I'm pretty much stuck trying to get the axle out...I can move it about 1/4 inch that is all I am in the same situation; stuck passenger CV with exact same model/year. Plus the transfer case is cracked. Thought it would be no big deal to pull the passenger cv axle and see if the transfer case can be removed without pulling the engine/trans. Wrong. Outboard splined axle frozen in bearing hub. Had to cut the CV shaft to get the hub off . Cv axle stuck in hub 06 Camry 4cyl. Jump to Latest Follo However, in the NORMAL course of events there is nothing wrong with using a pry bar to remove an axle. If you have a stubborn one then a pry bar may not work and you'll need to go to a plan B. I've seen cables fashioned up on slide hammers or big sledge hammers to get a good straight pull on the axle
The process of removing the axle went smooth after getting my hands on a inner CV joint puller which some people said I wouldn't need. Many people told me that I could use a prybar but I couldn't get that to work because I couldn't get the leverage that I needed from the ground under the car without risk of tearing up the trans Figure 2. The screw driven through the hole will push the hub out. Step 2 - Remove the lugs. First you should use your vice-clamps, pliers, or lug removing tool to successfully undo two lug nuts off the hub. Remove two lugs on opposite ends of each other. For example, far right and far left lug, or north and south lug Using a hub puller suggests there was a pressing bolt that was pushing on the stub axle. That is going to compress the inner CV joint, then push the engine / transmission to the side. Basically, you're putting the effort into pushing out the half shaft, not pulling on the bearing assembly
OTC (7509) Inner CV Joint Puller This is the puller you need for CV work on many Ford cars. Used with a slide hammer, it will remove an axle assembly from the transaxle without causing damage to expensive aluminum transmission cases or other components Check into replacing the axle if you need a new CV boot. Sometimes the whole axle assembly is cheaper and less time consuming than rebooting an axle. For example my car I spent $120 a side for new axles and avoided the whole rebooting thing since all the boots were almost 20 years old and starting to split
Originally, outer boot was ripped and the axle was in good shape not broken. I decided to try to do the work myself. Never done this. Axle would not pull out and tried numerous suggestions. Took to the dealer and they welded a bar onto the cup stuck in the tranny and used a slide hammer and air chisel using 3 or 4 guys to hold pull, slide, etc. Push the CV axle shaft through the wheel hub. The steering knuckle can now be pulled off the lower control arm. Remove the nut and bolt that holds the rear portion of the control arm to the chassis or sub frame of the car. Remove the two bolts that holds the front portion of the control arm to the sub frame of the car He got a new axle to put in but could not get the old one out. Now it is at another mechanic's, and he also can't remove the old axle. He says there is a pin on the end and it is stuck inside the transmission (a 5-speed manual transmission). He has broken the axle trying to remove it, and now it cannot be driven Eventually, constant-velocity (CV) joints begin to click, grind, clunk or hum, and need to be replaced. Removing a front axle on the Honda Passport could be a little tricky, but it's not impossible. Follow these simple steps to change the front axle on your Passport in a matter of minutes
Video tutorial on the five different ways to remove a stuck drum on a brake assembly. Depending on how the drum is stuck will affect which method is needed to remove the drum. You should get able to get an idea of how the drum is stuck by trying to move it. Either by rotating or trying to pull it from the hub The only other option seems to be to fully remove the hub (with the axle attached) and take it to a third-party to seperate the two. I'm reluctant to do that as it means disconnecting the brake line in addition to the work to remove the entire hub. Photos below of the axle moved out from it's original position and of the length of the axle bolt Starting off with the 32mm axle nut we can power that off with an impact. If you don't have an impact you can have a helper on the brake pedal and using a large breakover bar you should be able to remove it. You can utilize your punch and hammer now test whether the axle is rusted into the hub Yeah, they will pop out with a little effort. Whenever I replaced the rear diff in my mom's 97 L I had a hard time getting them back in. So, me being the genius I am , put the axle through the outer hub and put the axle nut on.Then I started the axle into the differential and held it there Once the axle is free from the hub, pull the spindle to one side and secure it using a strap or bungee. Step 8. Remove CV Axle. Using the C4RS CV tool and following the provided instructions, remove the CV axle from the front differential. There is an internal clip holding in the CV axle
When you originally determined that the hub bearing and CV joint stub axle were stuck together, another option would have been to remove the whole spindle, hub bearing and CV axle assembly from the vehicle, together in one big piece. This would have allowed you to apply penetrating oil with the exposed end of the CV joint stub axle pointing. Also know, how do you remove an axle nut cover? Using a medium size screwdriver and hammer tap the driver into the crack of the hub dust cover.Work your way around the edge, be careful not to deform the cover- it may take a few laps around the rim.Remove the cotter pin, retaining collar and 35mm axle nut.Remove the 4- 14mm bolts underneath the ball joint remove the entire axle ass'y from the car (it's only two more 14mm bolts), hold the bearing mount in a vice to open up the TJ boot and removed that end of the axle. From there, I punched out the little cap at the base of the cup and used a 10 3 jaw gear puller to just push the end free 3. Now using your 12 point 30 mm Socket and breaker bar, remove the axle nut from the axle. Make sure the car is still on the ground (otherwise you will need someone to hold the brakes while you do this). 4. Jack the car up and remove the 4 lug nuts holding the wheel onto the hub. 5
The left front axle on my 06 500 4x4 began clicking the last time I went out riding. After discovering that the boot closest to the differential had a 2 in hole in it, I attemped to remove the axle from the differential. I tried to pull it out of the differential, only to have the shaft separate from the part still in the diff. Now I have a. CV axle inner passenger side 2 Answers. Last June change both complete axles no problem. Driver side inner CV joint I thought went bad making noise. remove complete axle except for the hub that is stuck in the transmission. I tried every..
2009 - 2014 Ford F150 - Drivers CV Axle/Shaft Replacement (2012 F150 3.5L) - 2012 Ford F150 Platinum 3.5L I am replacing my front left axle/cv joint, I have so far removed the wheel, the dust cap, spindle nut and c clip. I have removed the nuts from the control arm and tie rod but they will not budge at all. Not sure.. Put your axle up in; guide the axle into the hub. Basically what allows you do see right here it's angled down. Having the wheel turned allows you to push your axle down and then pull on the CV and get it up and in, lined up. Start your six bolts. Now I'm going go in and tighten these bolts with my impact wrench Remove the axle nut; Separate the axle from the hub with a hammer and punch; Put paper towel between the hub and the emergency brake; Apply rust penetrant to the hub bolts; Remove the four 13mm bolts from the hub; Push the axle out of the hub; Pull off the hub and backing plate; Push the ABS sensor harness through the backing plat Check that now, as it might play a part in your decision what to do. I suggest you make up a puller if the heat doesn't allow you to remove it. It needs to hook behind the disk and have a bolt that will push on the axle. If you really got stuck into it with the sledge, you might have rooted the bearings, but probably not Why is my lug nut stuck? The main reason for a Lug nut to get stuck on a golf cart is due to corrosion. To avoid this problem, your nuts should be greased with oil regularly. How do you remove the rear axle on a EZGO golf cart? The steps to remove the rear axle on a EZGO golf cart are:
Either use a large brass hammer on the end of the cv joint to push it out of the bearing, or put a sacrifice axle nut on the end of the shaft (thread it down 3/4 of the way leaving the axle end countersunk in the nut) then use a 4lb steel sledge hammer and hit the nut to force it out of the bearing Check out this very stuck CV axle. Jump to Latest Follow 1 - 12 of 12 Posts Ya, a new axle/hub is the easiest way out of this one. Got you ***** bastard. I had to remove the bolt holding the spindle to the upper control arm, this provided more slack on the CV axle and assembly, and then went to work with a big ass pry bar and 10 lb. First, you need to remove the hubcap of the respective wheel of the CV axle that you are going to replace. For a model with rims, you might simply find a cap in the wheel's center instead of a hubcap. Step 2: Remove the cotter pin In case your car is designed with a cotter pin connecting the axle nut, it is important to remove it To pull the axle out it's best to pull it directly away from the wheel hub like such: Now you have the passenger side axle out! Sadly I was too tired by this point so I forgot to take pictures when removing the exhaust; good news is that the driver side axle is removed exactly the same way once the exhaust is removed
Remove lower ball joint bolts, push control arm down. Remove axle bolt, remove axle by pulling hub out, if it doesnt come out u need a brass punch to get her out. Then once its out the hub side u remove the 8 triple square bolts from the trans side lift the rear of the atv, remove the tires & top shock bolt (both sides), remove the cotter pin and break the hub bolt loose, but leave it on all the way. with the trailing arms completely extended down give the traiing arm a slight stomp with your foot, it my take 2 trys to get the right amout of force, then the axle will slightly pullout. If you need to separate the axle from the hub: use a large socket or a piece of 1/2 or larger solid round stock as a punch, beat the axle stub inward from the hub. It'll separate pretty easily (providing you are using the right BFG, I use a 3 lb. lump hammer). Your 4 lb.er is fine
Bill answered 3 years ago The splines are probably twisted on the back side while you pull the splines axle through the splines will bind severely.. You will need to find a way to drive it out. Or pull it out The first thing to try to is add some penetrating oil like WD40 and let it sit for awhile. You can then try tapping the bearing to try and remove it. You don't want to hit it too hard because you can damage the spindle. It is possible that the bearing has become welded to the spindle Use a sledge to drive out the bolt, if it only moves a fraction of an inch, then use a wrench to turn the nut back and forth, breaking it free from the corrosion seizing it to the collar in the bushing I paid a little extra for a mopar manufactured axle from my dealer and very happy, working great. piece of mind was worth a few extra bucks. 2. Remove half shaft hub nut. 3. Remove brake caliper and rotor. 4. Position hydraulic jack under lower suspension arm and raise jack to unload rebound bumper. 5. Remove lower shock absorber bolt. 6
Remove the axle nut. Once the cotter pin is out, you can remove the axle nut. The nut will take significant torque to remove, which is why it is much safer to remove the nut before jacking up the vehicle. Unfortunately, axle nuts do not have a standard size, and the socket size required will be different for different vehicles The axle has flanges on the inside that the bearing is resting against. You can try tapping on the end of the axle with a soft faced hammer or even a block of wood. This should dislodge the bearing from the hub. This will also damage the bearing If it's not due to the inboard housing, leave it in-place in the transaxle. Remove the metal ziptie from the CV boot, and pull the rest of the axle assembly out of it. Disassemble the new axle the same way, and plug it into the old inner unit. Replace the metal retainer strap on the CV boot
4. Remove wheels. 5. Unplug the ABS connectors at the frame and remove ABS harness from the control arm. 6. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle. 7. Remove steering knuckle from upper and lower ball joints and CV shaft. 8. Where the shaft comes out of the diff, rap the shaft with a hammer to pop it loose 9 Lean knuckle slightly outward and push splined end of CV axles in by hand to separate from hub assembly; if stuck, whack with a hammer and wood block. DO NOT let the knuckle lean all the way out, or your balljoint boot could split. 10 Sharply pull passengers' side CV axle out from transaxle and remove; use prybar at bearing if necessary 11.
Go back to the hub and slide the screwdriver between the metal top of the ball joint and the hub, don?t let it slip and slice the boot. This will allow the hub to move freely now and you can take the axle out of the hub side. 7. Let the axle lay on the cross member and go under the car again Thin sockets thread on to the axle shaft and pull the splined axle shaft into the hub. It can also press front wheel bearing hubs on to the spindle shaft. Includes adapters for thread sizes M22 x 1.5, M24 x 1.5, M27 x 1.5, M30 x 1.5, M16 x 1.5, M20 x 1.5 Bavarian Autosport served the needs of BMW and MINI enthusiasts from 1974-2019
Don't have one on actually removing the axle. I think the problem he has is removing the axle nut with a broken CV. Take, the caliper off, and then you'll just have to pin the hub to get the axle nut loose, then the hub will come off. Then it's the two bolts at the knuckle on the rear or the nuts on the ball joints at the front When removing the axle you will need loosen the 32mm 12 point nut on the axle (yellow arrow), if you do not have an impact gun the best way to do this is pop off the center cap on the wheel and with the wheel on and the vehicle on the ground use a very large breaker bar and loosen the nut before raising the vehicle I remove the knuckle and the bolts for the brake rotor then I balance the brake rotor between two cinder blocks with cardboard inbetween to protect it, then I put the socket for the cv axle nut on the back of the hub and give it one decent hit with a 20lb sledge and it normally comes right out the first hit
Re: Removing Driver\'s Side CV Axle Remove the 32mm nut, remove tie rod end, remove lower ball joint, using a long prybar pry the lower control arm from the knuckle, knock on end of axle to loosed from hub assy. Remove the 2 13mm nuts that secure the axle to the center carrier and it will all slide right out as a unit Loosen the hub nut before removing the brake caliper - either have an assistant press firmly on the brakes or insert a suitable tool into the rotor fins to hold it against the caliper support. The.. Always Use The Proper Press Type Tool To Remove The Old Stub Shaft. Never Strike The Outer Joint Stub Shaft With A Hammer. It Will Damage The Unit And Possibly Do Damage To The Hub Bearing Assembly. Are The Cv Drive Axle Shafts Balanced At The Factory Usually, it's easier to get to the hub bolts if the axle is removed first, but, with the nut still on it, the hub bolts are going to be difficult, if not impossible. Plus, if the axle nut is that corroded, I can't help wondering about the hub bolts being rusted in place, too. I foresee needing a torch to get that axle out of the hub
It can be a pain when you need to change a tire, but it's even tougher when your wheel rusts to your vehicle and gets stuck. If you can't easily pull off your wheel, there are a few things you can do to loosen it once you have the vehicle raised on stands. Try using tools to hit or pry the wheel off to break the rust and remove it quickly If you get real unlucky and the stub shaft separates from the CV axle first, then you are going to be stuck. My only extra advice, and you can guess how I know, is to make sure that you purchase an extra seal in case you mess up the first one. The special tool that is made for inserting this seal is a J-41102-1 I'd like to pull the axle out of the hub and take a look at it and if necessary, replace it. It LOOKS like all I have to do to free the axle is unbolt the lower ball joint, remove the caliper, remove the axle nut, and then just pull the hub back out of the way with the control arm still attached You can remove the axle nut now with your 32mm socket and impact gun. Once it is removed this is a good time to check that the axle slides in and out, it can often become seized by dirt and rust. If it won't move you can use a punch to help free it up, you may even need an air hammer for those really stuck Cv shafts